Craftsman Home and Furniture from Scratch
Tools
Acquiring just the right tool for job or the latest technology can be a hobby itself. I plead guilty to that last reason for buying tools. I will try and point out what I think are essential tools as opposed to want to have.
Table Saw
Most woodworkers consider the table saw to be the heart of their shop because it can handle so many of the tasks necessary for building furniture. I first started out with a very light weight Makita saw but quickly found out it could not handle larger pieces of wood or plywood. I upgraded to a Delta cabinet saw that I then used for many years. After I retired several years ago, I upgraded to the SawStop saw pictured above. I did so because it has a skin sensing blade technology that prevents serious injury to your hands and has a very good dust collection system. As I have used it, I have found that it is easier to set up accurately than my previous saw. The biggest negative about the saw is its price. Mine cost over $3000 in this configuration. However, if you feel that it is important to have the safety technology, SawStop does make a jobsite saw that costs $1400 and a contractors saw for $1700. Both saws are capable of accurate work and could be part of a furniture workshop, especially for a beginner.
However, that is still a lot of money and cost could be a barrier to getting started. In my shop, over half the tools I have are used tools. Other than the safety technology, table saws have not changed much over the 100 years or more. I recommend looking for brands that have been around for a while and are still selling saws and have parts available. Delta and Powermatic table saws are certainly worth considering and can usually be found on Craigslist or eBay. Bosch jobsite saws would also be worth considering and seem to be readily available on the used market. Generally, I would look for a saw that had been well taken care of with little to no rust and had been owned by a hobbyist rather than a commercial shop. The commercially used saws are likely to have more wear on bearings and other items.
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Jointer
The jointer flattens boards and can create square edges. Boards need to be both flat and square to be useful in furniture building. This is a six-inch-wide Powermatic jointer that I bought used but almost new. The person I bought it from had equipped his woodworking shop to build furniture in retirement and then changed hobbies to pursue. I paid less than half the normal selling price of $1400. I have since upgraded the cutter head to a helical carbide one to make it easier to mill woods with difficult grain. This jointer replaced a Delta jointer that had a much shorter bed which made it harder to use. New and used Grizzly jointers would be a good alternative to the Powermatic. If I was going to buy another jointer, I would buy an 8” one to accommodate wider boards.
Sliding Compound Miter Saw
This saw is a Festool Kapex KS 120 miter saw which can cut straight and angled cuts on boards. For many years I had a Dewalt compound miter saw that worked well but had limited cross cut capability. I upgraded the saw because it has greater cross cut capability as well it is easier to make accurate cuts on it. By the way, Festool tools are made for professionals who may be working out in the field as well as in the shop. Therefore, they tend to be lighter and easier to set up as well as sturdier. Also, Festool allows tool purchasers to return tools for full refund within 30 days of purchase. They then resell those tools after close examination as refurbished with a one-year factory warranty at a substantial discount to the price. That is how I bought mine. Used Festool tools are available but often are more expensive than other brands new.
An alternative to the Kapex saw with similar quality and accuracy is the Bosch 12-inch Dual-Bevel Glide Miter saw. A new one costs less than half of a new Kapex and used ones are available at substantial discount. The reason I did not go with the Bosch was that it requires more room behind the saw and did not have nearly as good dust collection. Used Dewalt saws are readily available in the $150 – 200 range.
Another low-cost option would be to buy a. used radial arms saw. I first started out with a used Craftsman radial arm saw and only replaced it with a miter saw because it took up so much floor space in the shop. Used ones seem to sell for $100 -200 depending on condition and options.
Thickness Planer
The Minimax 35 is a multi-purpose tool that is a thickness planer, 13” jointer and a mortiser. I primarily use it as a thickness planer and not at all as a mortiser. Mine is a model from the 1980s that I purchased used from another hobbyist that had purchased from a cabinet shop previously. Even though it came from a commercial shop, I have only had to replace the on off switch. I also upgraded it with a helical carbide cutting head for smoother cut. This planer replaced a Delta 12” planer that was much lighter. I bought the Minimax because its 700 lbs. weight and larger motor was more suited for milling rough cut lumber and thicker lumber. A good new or used alternative planer would be the DeWalt DW735 13” Two Speed planer.
Drill Press
This Craftsman drill press was one of the first tools I purchased and I continue to use it frequently. Similar used drill presses are usually found on local Craigslist. I did upgrade mine with a larger table and fence.
Bandsaw
It turns out this 20” bandsaw is way bigger than I needed or will need. I sold my 14” Delta bandsaw and bought this one because I thought I would be resawing wide rough lumber. As it turned out, I rarely used that capability and the Delta or another 14” bandsaw would have been able to do the work. This was a case of over estimating my needs early in my woodworking journey. Also, bandsaws this big aren’t very good at using narrow blades for short radius curves. I frequently use this 11” Shopsmith bandsaw for small work or curved work. IMG_0672.HEIC However, the large table is helpful in cutting large panels.
Shopsmith
The Shopsmith is a multifunctional tool that can serve as a table saw, drill press, horizontal boring tool, lathe and disc sander. It is a base and motor for other accessory tools. I purchased one used for $500 and planned to use it in a remote shop someday and as a lathe. I did set it up when I moved houses and built the bookcases that are in the study. I would mention that a used Shopsmith might be a good first tool for some woodworkers. The positives about this tool are that: 1. There are many used ones available because they were often sold at mall demonstrations but never used by their purchasers. 2. The Shopsmith company is still in business and offers parts and upgrades for older machines. 3. The base model provides most of the functionality that you need to build furniture. 4. It is a compact machine and takes up little room. The primary negatives for the Shopsmith are: 1. The change over from one function to another takes time and 2. The table for the table saw is small which makes it difficult to make accurate and safe cuts. Shopsmith multitools are often sold for $300 -500.
Dust Collection System
I have attached an Oneida cyclone to a single stage Delta dust collector wit a 1 micron filter. The cyclone empties into a large tub in the sealed wood box. I chose the tub because it can be easily emptied outside in the yard. For woodworkers that have to put collected wood dust and shavings in the trash, a barrel with a bag in it would be better under the cyclone. The added cyclone separates the larger shavings and dust and reduces the load on the single stage collector. The system is hooked up to the table saw, jointer and other tools through ceiling mounted 6” galvanized HVAC ducts. HVAC ducts are readily available at big box stores and are much cheaper than specialty ducting. There are two stage dust collectors that are more compact and take up less floor space. I have not seen many dust collector system on the used market.
This is a picture of the automated blast gates that I have added to my system. They automatically open the blast gate to the tool when it is turned on and close it when the tool is turned off. This is strictly a costly convenience item. For a fraction of the cost, you can install manual blast gates at each tool and have the same effect. You just have to remember to open the gate and turn on the system each time you use the tool and close it and turn the system of when you are done. Dust Collectors are very noisy.
This barrel dust collector is hooked up the thickness planer with 4” duct work. Thickness planers generate a large volume of chips so using a large barrel reduces the frequency of having to empty the collector.
Dust Collection for Smaller Tools
I use Karcher WD5/P vacuums on all of my hand machines like sanders, routers, track saw and the Kapex. These tools are plugged into the vacuum and the vacuum starts when the tool is turned on and goes off 10 seconds after the tool is turned off. There are an number of vacuums for woodworking tools including some very expensive ones from Festool, but I have found the Karcher is a great value at a new price of $180. By the way, this is very useful in vacuuming up the shop and works well as a wet vacuum when you need that. I have 4 Karcher vacuums because I have them dedicated to specific work stations. By the way, I bought all but one of them on eBay as used or refurbished. I paid between $75 and $100 for them.
Thickness Sander
I use the thickness sander to level large glued up panels and to sand thin stock to final thickness. For many shops this would be optional depending on that type of project you’re building. If you are using thin wood panels instead of veneered plywood when building Arts and Crafts furniture, then this maybe an investment you want to consider. The thickness sander is very useful when you are using wood with difficult grain like quarter sawn oak. A low cost option to buying a thickness sander is to find a cabinet shop in your area that will thickness sand panels for you. Thickness sanders are not as common on the used market as table saws and jointers.
Disk and Belt Sander
The combination belt and disk sander is useful in shaping wood, especially on smaller projects. I do not use it very often in furniture building.
Routers
Routers are easily considered an essential tool for making furniture because of their capability and versatility. Routers are useful in making a number of different joints and well as adding finish touches to projects such as decorative edging or making trim pieces. In addition to the two routers seen, I have a third mounted in my router table. A first or only shop router probably should be a 1 ½ to 2 hp combination router with both a fixed base and a plunge base. I also have a small battery powered Bosch trim router that is handy to have but not essential to most work.
Leigh Dovetail Jig
Leigh is one of several manufactures that make jigs to create dovetail joints. Dovetail joints are valued by woodworkers because of the strength and visual appeal of the joint. Historically and still today, craftsmen made these joints by hand using fine saws and chisels. With practice, craftsmen can produce these joints with ease and fairly quickly. After hand cutting dovetails on one project, I decided to use a jig and router to make dovetail joints. I bought this Leigh jig because it could be set up to cut dovetails on wide boards and can make variable spaced dovetails and sliding dovetails. With an accessory template, it can also make box joints. One big advantage of this jig besides its versatility is its dust collection. Routing dovetails makes a lot of dust and Leigh has an accessory dust collector that does a great job containing the mess. They are now making a version of this dust collector for other brands of dovetailing jigs. What I have found is that I use the jig to make through and half blind dovetails on drawers. If that is the type of work you would be doing, I would purchase a smaller jig with fixed spacing like the Leigh RTJ400. These jigs are easier to set up and cost considerably less.
Leigh FMT Pro Mortise & Tenon Jig
The FMT is another router-based jig that is designed to make a common and useful joint – the mortise and tenon joint. You will find mortise and tenon joints on almost any piece of furniture. It is a very strong way to attach wood at 90 degrees and other angles. This joint can be made using hand tools, table saws, band saws, drill presses and dedicated mortisers. I bought this tool because I was taken with the technology and how it worked. I have used it on a few projects and loaned it to a friend for one project. This jig is an optional way to make mortise and tenon joints and in my shop has been eclipsed by Domino jointers.
Festool Domino Jointers
Festool makes two sizes of the Domino for a wide range of joints and yes, I have both. The Dominos create a mortise in both pieces of wood to be joined and a loose tenon manufactured to the size of the mortise is glued in both. With today’s modern glues, the loose tenon joint is as strong as the wood itself a traditional mortise and tenon. The primary advantage of the Dominos is that they are taken to the wood to cut the mortise instead of taking the wood to the machine. This makes the work easier in most cases and is just as precise. The biggest negative for the Dominos is the price. They are German made for the commercial market and their technology is unique and patented which makes them expensive. Festool does not allow their dealers to discount the price either. The price for a base Domino DF 500 is $980 and the DF 700 XL $1425. Accessories and additional sized bits are extra and the price for dominos range from 6 to 50 cents each in bulk. Although these occasionally appear for sale on eBay, I have found that buying a refurbished one from Festool when they are available is less expensive and come with a one-year guarantee. Often these are returned tools with little to no use and have been factory inspected.
An alternative loose tenon system is the Beadlock drill based system. Rockler just added an updated version that makes clamping and aligning the jig easier. It costs $80 and with care can produce good joints. My brother has used one for several years to build a number of quality furniture pieces. Like a lot of things, if you take your time, you can make.it work.
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Biscuit Jointer
Biscuit jointers have been around for many years and while similar to domino jointers, use a thin biscuit to join wood and are not nearly as strong as loose tenon joints. However, they are very useful in joining faceframes and joining faceframes to cabinet boxes.
Festool Track Saw
Track saws are very useful in cutting down large sheet goods and cutting them to final size. They are also very helpful in trimming cabinet doors and sawing a straight edge on rough lumber. When combined with a dedicated table such as the Festool FMT table, the range and quality of cuts increases.
With the FMT, I am able to make very accurate cross cuts as well as rip cuts with the saw, it serves as clamping base for using the Domino as well as sanding. I added the accessory router table to extend the length of the table as well as take up less floor space with the router table. While Festool pioneered the track saw, other manufactures have started making them Makita, Triton, Shop Fox and most recently Kreg. Kreg has also developed a table system similar to the Festool FMT that gives their saw capabilities similar to a table saw at less than half the cost of an FMT and track saw. The Kreg Adaptive Cutting Master Kit priced at $900 could be a good first purchase for an aspiring furniture builder. Add in a router and you could build a lot of furniture.
Sanders
I use the belt sander for leveling large panels and table tops and the 6” random orbital sander for finishing large surfaces. In sanders, I favor Bosch sanders over Festool sanders because they have similar functionality and the Bosch sanders cost a lot less. For example the Bosch dual action 6” sander has similar capabilities and specs as the Festool Rotex 150 but costs under $300 while the Festool costs $630. By the way, the extra action of these sanders allows for rapid stock removal which can be useful when using rough lumber. How i make tool choices is reading reviews in magazines like Fine Woodworking, woodworking websites as well as user reviews. I am not dedicated to any one brand for all tools.
These 5” finish sanders are used frequently on almost every project.. I often use two sanders with two different grades of sandpaper. I recently purchased Bosch 5” random orbital sanders for under $80 for my kids’ shops. They were highly rated in a Fine Woodworking review.
Pocket Hole Jig
The Kreg pocket hole jig is used to make faceframes, jigs, and other joints where the pocket holes will be hidden. I have seen it used in table glue ups in place of clamps. It is fairly inexpensive ($150) and useful in the shop.
Drills
I have Bosch 12 volt drills and Dewalt 20 volt drills. Since most drills are battery powered, you want to choose a family of drills so you can share batteries or buy tools with out batteries. The Bosch drill shown here is a good first 12 volt drill because with its attachments it can use either standard drills or quick change drills, right angle drilling or offset drilling. It can also use quick change drivers. A 20 volt drill is useful for heavy drilling, like repeated pocket holes, deep boring and larger drill bits. An impact driver is useful for deep screws and lag bolts.
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Measuring Tools
I use both imperial and metric measuring tools. I started using metric when I bought my first Festool tools because they only came in metric. They now make imperial marked tools for the US market. In many cases, I prefer the metric because it is easier to make a more precise measurement when you get down to 32nds and 64ths of an inch. It is also easier to determine fractional intervals such as shelf placement. With a little practice you can go back and forth between the two.
